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New Zealand
We arrived in Christchurch, New Zealand on April 24th. Christchurch is located on the east coast and is the South Island's largest city, with a population of around 350,000.
New Zealand is approximately the size of California, with only a little over 3.5 million inhabitants, the majority of whom live in the North Island's major metropolitan centers. Much of the country remains rural and agricultural, with lots plenty of green spaces and mountainous terrain to explore. It is an outdoor enthusiast's paradise and New Zealander's (or 'Kiwi's' as they're called, nicknamed after their national emblem and indigenous, flightless, nocturnal bird) typically enjoy the rugged outdoor life and utilize their country's wonderful infrastructure of hiking and backpacking facilities.
It is also a mecca for sea kayaking, river rafting, jet boating, cycling, climbing and mountaineering, skiing, flying, bungy jumping, para-gliding / hang-gliding / parachuting, fishing and golf! - So if you are in any way inclined towards any of these (extreme) sports and much more, then this is the place to be.
New Zealand is scenically magnificent, with diverse landscapes that include verdant mountains and deep fiords, the Southern Alps, orchards, vineyards, tussock and grassland, active geothermal and volcanic regions, incredible crystal clear rivers and lakes, golden sand beaches and miles of rugged coastline. There are endless recreation possibilities and miles of untouched wilderness to explore.
Christchurch is a fun city that reminded us very much of Eugene, Oregon. It is the South Island's fastest growing metropolitan area, with the low lying skyline tending to spread outward rather than upward. Cosmopolitan and full of character, it has managed to retain much of its older, historic buildings, many of which have been renovated or well maintained. Its small enough that you can easily find your way around and central downtown is contained within a one square kilometer area.
We stayed here for only a day before catching a bus down to Queenstown to visit our dear friends Rennie and Mary and their combined families. It was wonderful to see these good people again and they welcomed us warmly into their home and gave us the use of a vehicle.
We had met seven years ago, when they were living in the Fiordland town of Te Anau and I pulled into their driveway and asked if it would be OK to pitch my tent in their field for the night! I ended up staying for a month and we became good friends. The rest is history.
Rennie and Mary actually live in Frankton, which is just a short distance away from the bustling little outdoor adventure capital of Queenstown, on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. From their living room window, you look directly out onto the 'Remarkables' mountain range and all around the scenery is just breath-taking.
A number of rivers feed into the lake nearby, notably the Shotover and Kawarua which are very popular with the commercial Jet boating companies that speed up and down the canyons. Rennie also owns one of these fast boats that utilize a V8 engine and use 'Hamilton' jet propulsion instead of a motor and propeller, enabling them to operate in very shallow water.
He took us out on the Kawarua one day for a spin and it certainly was a rush! We were literally hydro-planing at high speed across the surface of the water, occasionally pulling tight 360 degree circles and throwing off walls of spray. The river was amazingly clear and deep in places, the banks overhung with willow and poplar in a blaze of fall color.
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Rennie and Mary took us on a drive around the surrounding countryside, visiting Arrowtown which used to be an old gold prospectors settlement and on to some of the more notable landscaping projects that Rennie and his partner have been involved with locally. They had created some wonderful, subtly blended landscapes and gardens that utilize a lot of the more interesting native plantings, as well as several imaginative ponds and rock walls with locally quarried stone. So, hard working Rennie has no shortage of interesting jobs to keep himself busy.
Queenstown and vicinity is growing rapidly and what once were large farms and sheep stations, are now being readily sub-divided and new homes erected. There is a lot of foreign interest and investment occurring around here and land prices just keep soaring. It is also becoming a popular destination for the filming of movies and recent shoots include 'Vertical Limits' and 'Lord of the Rings'.
Afterwards, we ventured up the winding gravel road into the Remarkables where there is a large ski field in one of the upper bowls. A commercial tandem, hang-gliding outfit was taking clients on rides from the steep grassy slopes half way up the mountain. The look of trepidation on the faces of some of these first time passengers was justified, as there was nothing but a thousand feet of air beneath them as they soared down into the valley below.
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The views from up here were terrific.The weather had created a wonderful sense of drama over the lake, with rays of fading sunlight piercing the brooding dark grey cloud that had developed over the Crown Range and all around the glory of autumn was in full effect.
Rennie had a huge upcoming job in the North Island that meant he would be away from home for three months, planting a new residential project just north of Auckland. There were 80,000 thousand plants, primarily native species, that had to be loaded onto trucks and transported from his partner's nursery in Manapouri (Fiordland) up north. So Rennie, Mary, Annette and I all headed down there, basing ourselves in Te Anau, for 2 days of solid hard work. While here, we visited some of the old haunts and people that I had met on my last visited to NZ.
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There was an excellent group of people, 12 of us in total, who were responsible for loading and tightly packing the plants that had been grown here especially for this project. It was a massive undertaking, where cattle transporting trailers with multiple decks were used to stack the plants. After this year's summer, which had produced a serious drought and caused all sorts of problems for farmers throughout NZ, the rains had finally come and given everything a good and well-needed soaking. This also had the effect of saturating the plants that were being grown in plastic bags, making them twice as heavy as they would normally have been. After the first day of loading, we were informed that the truck had actually been overweight by 4 tons, such was the moisture problem!
The 'Home Creek Nursery' is situated about 20kms south of Te Anau, near Lake Manapouri, which borders the Fiordland National Park. It is surrounded by some lovely big mature pine and beech trees and covers about 12 acres, with every bit of available space taken up by row upon row of plants and trees. There were also several cultivating green houses, where they would produce much of their stock from seed. After two days of loading and 30,000 plants later, it still seemed that we made only made a small dent in the available inventory! Two more similar loads are to go north at a later date.
The rolling pasture and farmland that surrounds this region is primarily utilized for deer farming, mainly Red Deer and Elk (Wapiti) and hybrids of the two. They are magnificent animals and it is wonderful to see so many grazing away in the fields that border the roadways. They perfectly complement the awesome backdrop created by the rugged and densely forested mountains of Fiordland, set against frequently striking and dramatic skies. Rennie and Mary used to raise deer on their last farm in Te Anau, until moving into the landscaping business and I can recollect many memorable times assisting Rennie with his stock.
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On returning to Frankton, Annette and I got together our camping gear and made tracks up to Wanaka for a 2-day excursion into the Matukituki Valley (Mt. Aspiring National Park).
Wanaka is a slightly quieter and scaled down version of Queenstown, lying at the southern tip of the lake that bears its name. From Frankton it is only an hour's drive up over the steep and exposed Crown Range which was formerly a gravel road (I had previously cycled it) but now is sealed.
The 30 mile long Lake Wanaka was glacially formed around 14,000 years ago and averages 1000 feet deep, making its bottom actually below sea level. We wove around the western edge of the lake past Glendhu Bay and veered away from the water into the main Matukituki Valley. A well defined gravel road followed alongside the Matukituki river for the next 52 kms, terminating at the 'Rasberry Flat' trailhead.
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We set up camp at Cameron Flat and went hiking and bird watching alongside the river, noting goldfinches, fantails and tomtits. The weather was a little unpredictable and wild on this day, but thankfully did not rain. Up ahead was the formidable hanging glacier of Avalanche Peak, the surrounding deep green of silver beech forest and on the river flats, yellow and reds of transitioning poplar accented the scene. The river was crystal clear with a blue tinge and icy cold, fed by the glaciers in the surrounding upper valleys.
I decided to spend the latter half of the day hiking up the Glacier Burn Valley, which entailed a river crossing up to my thighs. Annette opted to hang out in camp and stay dry! It was a lovely walk through the fields that flanked the river, where sheep grazed and on up into the beech forest that led into yet another more remote valley. At the head of this valley, a thin ribbon waterfall issued out of the Avalanche Peak Glacier and cascaded down several hundred feet of sheer rock, which in turn fed the main Matukituki River.
As the sun set, some wild lenticular cloud formations caught the remaining light and made for a wonderfully dramatic evening sky. We cooked dinner and turned in early.
The following morning, we struck camp and headed for the Rasberry Flat car park. Time permitting, there are a number of trails and hikes that can be done from this point, including access to climbs on Mt. Aspiring itself, which is one of NZ's more challenging mountaineering peaks.
We hiked the Rob Roy Trail which leads up into another of the area's fine beech covered valleys, first crossing the river on one of NZ's numerous suspension bridges. Magnificent exposed slopes of rock towered off to our left and far above hung the heavily crevassed glacier of Rob Roy Peak.
With Rennie and Mary's home as our base and the use of the car they had so generously given us, we made a series of smaller excursions instead of one extended journey around the south. Next we headed over to the West Coast.
Because the Southern Alps run down the spine of the South Island, posing a major obstacle, there are only a few roads that cross from east to west. The only direct route from Frankton took us back to Wanaka and up along the shores of Lake Hawea and on through the wide Makarora Valley. The Makarora River feeds Lake Wanaka at its northern tip.
There are a number of great hikes in the region, including the Wilkins and Young valleys that bisect the main Makarora valley. The backcountry hut system in NZ is probably the best in the world, with accommodation ranging from large,well equipped chalets with cooking gas, comfortable bunks and woodburning stoves, to simple bivvy shelters. It is said that you can walk from one end of the country to the other using these strategically placed huts, that are never more than a good day's walk apart.
Just prior to the Haast Pass, which marks the high point on the road west, there is a short walk through the silver beech ('Tawhai' in Maori) forest to a lovely spot known as the 'Blue Pools'. A glacial stream descends steeply from the western mountain slopes of the Makarora valley, plunging into a large, deep pool, that was clearly aqua blue. Brown trout were just visible in the faster moving waters.
It was at this point in our day's journey, that Annette started to have some pretty bad, shooting pains in her hip, that caused her a great deal of discomfort when walking. She could barely find comfort sitting in the car and at one point said that if it didn't get better soon, we had better go to the hospital. The pain had come on so quickly, it had unnerved us. We thought that it might be a pinched nerve or cyatica. Time proved that it was probably a badly strained muscle, maybe due to all the plant moving of the previous week.
Initially at least, it had the effect of limiting our experiences to those that could be had from the car and scrapping our proposed hike of the Copeland Track.
A short drive up valley from the Blue Pools is Davis Flat, which is the start of an old historic bridal path that was developed from 1875 onwards by pioneers forging a link between Wanaka and the West Coast settlement of Haast. Formerly, it was a three-day journey on horseback and cattle drives used to take place by farmers moving stock from the West to the lowlands of Otago. With the completion of a sealed road in 1960, the route can now be traveled by car in a couple of hours.
From the Pass, the descending valley closes in dramatically for several Kms and the Haast river drops sharply through this gorge, creating a roaring torrent when in full flood. The weather up in these mountains had deteriorated dramatically since leaving the sunny shores of Lake Wakatipu and Frankton. The upper spires of the surrounding peaks were ghostly grey silhouettes, only intermittently visible through the patchy rain and mist that had now developed.
This was a bit demoralizing, as the last time I had cycled through this region the weather was equally bad, if not worse and so all the views were once again stolen from us. One of the benefits of passing through here in these conditions are the waterfalls that appear.
Natural cracks and fissures in the steep granite faces of the valley side walls, become periodic passageways for an enormous excess of water which comes tumbling down in white rivulets. Other permanent falls with names such as Thunder Falls, Roaring Billy Falls and Fantail Falls grace the upper Haast Valley.
As the Haast river valley gets closer to the Tasman Sea, it widens and fans out into a multitude of capillaries that are constantly moving and changing course and take 10 million tons of silt out to sea annually.
The road follows the coast north, through virgin rainforest territory, which is comprised of Podocarps such as Rimu, Totara, Kahikatea and flowering hardwoods like Rata and Kamahi. Isolated patches of Silver Beech can also be seen along sections of the coastal stretch. Trout and salmon are common in the lakes and rivers of the coastal plains and Scaup, Southern Crested Grebe, Paradise Duck and Mallard inhabit the waterways. The dense rainforest is home to rare birds such as the Bush Falcon, Kaka and Yellow Crested Parakeet.
It was almost dark by the time we arrived at Lake Paringa, our camp site for the next two nights.
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The lake was like glass, a dark grey due to the overcast conditions. Around the shores were native grasses, soft tree ferns, cabbage trees and flax, while a light evening mist hung over the rainforest canopy of the surrounding hills.
We set up the tent, ate dinner and crawled into our sleeping bags, just in time for the rains to commence again and stay with us through till early morning.
The nasty little biting sand flies were out in force to greet us as we emerged in the morning and the only way to avoid them was to keep moving. To stand still was to invite trouble. Our day's destination was the Fox Glacier, about 120 kms north of Lake Paringa.
En route, we stopped in at the trailhead to the strenuous Copeland Track, which follows the Copeland River for 17km up to the 'Welcome Hut' near the head of the valley. There are a series of hot pools up here that hikers can soak up in after a long 7-hour trek.
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From this vantage point, there are wonderful views of the surrounding, snow clad peaks that include Mt. Cook, NZ's highest mountain. The actual Copeland Pass is rated difficult and typically you require crampons, ice axe and a rope to descend to the Hooker Valley and Mt. Cook Village below.
Annette was still hobbling badly and was not able to venture more than a few feet from the car. I went for a brief one hour hike up through the rainforest that straddles Rough Creek, which feeds the main Karangarua Valley River.
The dense forest was composed of towering native trees that in turn played host to a plethora of other species, including ferns, mosses and lichens. Giant soft-tree ferns and fuchsia trees were among some of the other species present in the understory. It was an incredibly damp, moist environment, where the ground underfoot was spongy and sounds were dampened or absorbed. It was still and very quiet. I saw no signs of animals and even the birdlife appeared limited to a few tomtits and fantails.
For a brief while, the sun broke through the cloud and a sliver of blue sky appeared over the distant snow capped peaks, giving us a false sense of hope for a positive change in the weather. Unfortunately, it was short lived. By the time we reached Fox Glacier it was pouring down once more. We did drive up the valley to the car park which designates the beginning of the hour's hike up to the terminal glacier. Annette managed a brief 100 yard hobble for a view of the huge ice field at a distance, but was in no shape to go on further. We had a bit of fun amidst the aches and pains and inclement weather, watching the Kea's chewing away at the roof skylights and water seals on a camper van.
These precocious birds are the world's only alpine parrots and are confined to the mountain areas of New Zealand. The younger birds hang out in mobs, have long curved, sharp bills and can't seem to get enough of things like car antennas and window seals! They will steal your food and break into your tent if you are not vigilant. These beautiful green parrots with red underwings are endangered and protected by law.
We returned to Lake Paringa and endured another wet night, but awoke to a clearing sky with promising prospects. The return trip proved to be a lot more fun. Annette's leg was sufficiently improved to allow her to go on a bit of a walk and the sun just kept shining.
At Lake Moeraki, which is home to lots of Black Swans and numerous ducks, there is a trailhead that leads down to the ocean at Monro beach. The hour and a half round trip Monro Beach walk, is a true gem. The trail takes you through some pristine native forest, with lots of songbirds and tanin-stained streams.
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Floodplain soils at the beginning of the trek house NZ's tallest tree, the Kahikatea. Vines, ferns, mosses and lichens cluster around every available surface of these great trees. Kiekie, Kamahi, Wineberry, Fuchsia and Astelia all grow here too.
Rimu dominates the forest canopy of the higher, less fertile ground. Rata trees are present also, identified by their stringy bark and red flowers in summer. Deciduous Kokukutuku, the worlds largest fuchsia, with its pink/brown papery bark, provides contrast with the greenery.
The distinctive Prince of Wales Fern and Chicken & Hen Ferns line the edge of the track. Glow worms can be seen at night on these ferny banks. Nearer the coast, jungle dense Kiekie, Supplejack and Tussocky Gahnia dominate the understory.
The bird life on the trail includes silvereye, grey warbler, brown creeper, fantail, bellbird, tui, kaka, wood pigeon and falcon. Monro beach is a protected breeding area for the Tawaki or Crested Penguin. The dense forest that backs up to the pebble bay offers a bit of seclusion and protection for the colony of about 30 penguins.
NZ fur seals are also a sight here along with dolphin's, including the Dusky, Hector and Bottlenose and occasionally Orcas (Killer Whales) are seen off-shore.
We stopped at Knights Point Lookout for sweeping views up and down the coast. The Tasman was calm and glistened with the sun's reflection. Rugged basalt formations protruded from its surface just off-shore and very steep sandstone cliffs fell sharply away to the nutrient rich waters below.
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The trip back through the Haast Valley was a bit of a triumph, finally having a chance to see it in all its glory. It's a magnificent place in fine weather. We stopped at Roaring Billy Falls and walked through yet another magnificent example of NZ Westland rainforest, with towering ancient Kahikatea and Beech trees. It was a pleasant conclusion to our west coast experience.
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Our next journey a couple of days later, took us back through Te Anau en route to Milford Sound. We stopped at the Dept.of Conservation (DOC) and finalized plans to hike the 'Milford Track'.
This particular hike, that typically takes anywhere from 3-4 days is reputed to be one of the worlds 'great treks'. The official trekking season ended on April 27th and after this time the huts reverted to category 3, which means all the usual amenities were suspended, so hikers have to pack in all their own gear. Logistically, it is a little more difficult to access, requiring a 40-minute boat ride to the beginning of the track and a sea kayak voyage to end it.
Once our passage had been organized, we continued on up alongside the eastern shores of Lake Et Anna and through the beautiful Eglantine Valley to the 'Divide', which marks the beginning of the stunning Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks.
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The scenery along this route is just magnificent, with the glacial formed valley walls rising precipitously either side of the road and fast flowing, icy blue rivers continuing to carve away at the landscape. Each year, landslides, avalanches or river erosion take out sections of the road into Milford Sound and it seems that there is always repair work being done somewhere along its length.
17km short of Milford, the road enters Homer Tunnel (approx.1km long) which was cut through a solid, towering wall of granite, making access to the Sound possible. On the other side, the valley descends steeply, following the Cleddau River down to Milford. This valley is truly awesome and offers some tremendous super long rock and ice climbing routes, but is relatively unexplored due to the high percentage of bad weather days in every year. Like the Haast valley, the Cleddau turns into a series of waterfalls that cascade down off the slick, black granite rock faces.There's a well known saying that goes, "you haven't seen Milford til you see it in the rain".
Until the end of the Milford Track, I had no idea how true this was! Today though, it was dry and peaceful.
Milford Sound, known as 'Piopiotahi' to the Maoris, is a marine reserve and undoubtedly one of the highlights of a visit to Fiordland National Park. It is a true jewel and an unforgettable experience.
The actual inlet or fiord extends 17km out to the Tasman Sea and the heavily indented coastline has a series of towering granite rock faces that slope down steeply into the dark, depths - Mitre Peak (1693m/5565') being the prominent and famous natural feature.
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Milford Sound receives on average 7m (23 feet) of rainfall annually and the saturated mountains and forest that cover the lower slopes shed into the Sound and float on the surface. The initial 3-4m (10-13 feet) surface layer is fresh water and acts like a screen, filtering out light from the salt water depths below. As a result, underwater life is concentrated in the first 40m (130') and includes dolphin, blue cod, crayfish, red coral, black coral, sea pen, and brachiopod, while the underlying 400m (1315') is relatively uninhabited.
MIlford Sound has a resident fleet of fishing boats that head out into the Tasman Sea and fish for blue nose grouper, rock lobster and occasionally bluefin tuna. There are also a number of commercial cruise boats that ferry passengers out to the head of the Fiord and back several times daily.
A short walk from the Ferry terminal is Bowen Falls, one of several permanent waterfalls in the Sound. 'The Chasm' is another interesting natural feature in the area, that is the product of water tumbling down a narrow gorge and carving out fantastic shapes from the rock walls. We concluded our visit to Milford with a number of stops along the route home, visiting Mirror Lakes, the Keas at Homer Tunnel and Falls Creek waterfall. We stayed the night in the Holiday Park in Te Anau and prepared our gear and food for the following morning's trek.
Milford Track
Because the official hiking season for this particular track had ended two weeks earlier, we packed for self-sufficiency. The huts are still open and mattresses are provided in the bunkrooms, but the trekker must pack everything else in.
We began the day’s journey in Te Anau, where we were shuttled up to Te Anau Downs, mid-way up the lake, to the boat launch. From here it was a 40 minute speed boat ride to Glade Wharf at the most northerly end of Lake Te Anau.
This particular lake is the South Islands largest with only Lake Taupo in the North Island eclipsing it for size. It was glacially formed, as was all of Fiordland, between 14 – 20 thousand years ago and is 44 miles long with 380 miles of shoreline. The lake is 1365 feet at its deepest, with an average depth of 900 feet and has 3 branching arms, the south, middle and north, which create a series of narrow gorges, where a thick carpet of forest abruptly terminates at the waters edge.
The Murchison Mountains, that form the western flank of the middle section of Lake Te Anau, are home to the rare and endangered Takahe, a flightless bird and forest dweller. There are only 250 of these birds left in the world and are restricted to a remote valley in this area.
A light mist hung over the lake on this cool morning and the water was like glass. Occasionally a break in the fog permitted glimpses of the surrounding natural beauty. We were dropped at a simple jetty that marked the beginning of the Milford Track with signs that indicated that it was 13 miles (21 km), or 7 hours hike to our day’s destination, the Mintaro Hut.
The Track is 33 miles (53.5 km) long and would take us 3 days to complete. The path for this first day’s journey only gained a little over 1000 feet (300m) of elevation over the 13mile distance, so the grade seemed gentle. It began in the beech forest, a damp and fertile environment that was thick with moss and ferns. Some of the really old mature beeches can reach 600 years in age and are heavily encrusted in all sorts of vegetation. The track followed the course of the Clinton River, passing small isolated lakes that beautifully reflected the sharply rising granite walls that formed the U-shaped valley.
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Opening out into native heath and scrub terrain midway through the day, this area was home to numerous species of bird that included our first sighting of the lovely Bellbird, which has a particularly wide vocal range.
A low-pressure system had formed over the western half of Fiordland and rain began to lightly fall, obscuring the upper sections of this impressive valley. With steadily deteriorating conditions, the steep, dark grey rock faces glistened in the half-light.
We had several river crossings over the course of the day via suspension bridges, which are actually removed a little later on in the season to preclude the possibility of avalanche damage or washouts in flood conditions.
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Reaching the Mintaro Hut as darkness fell, we were wet and tired from the long days hike. The hut accommodates 40, but on this particular evening there were only 10 of us. Unfortunately the wood-burning stove just couldn’t be made to fire up and our wet clothes and boots stayed that way. Two rows of stainless steel worktops and sinks were set up in the main dining area for general use and everyone quietly prepared dinner on primus stoves under headlamps. 7.30pm is considered a late night for us out here, where our rhythms are set to the rise and fall of the suns cycle.
The screeching of Keas around 7am, woke everybody up. Three young and restless birds hopped around outside and breakfasted on the huts tin roof and plastic water tanks.
It was time to put on the damp attire and head out into the morning drizzle once more. The first two hours of the day were passed slowly zigzagging back and forth up the moderate slopes that led up to the MacKinnon pass, which is the tracks high point at 3527 feet (1073m). The winds gusted forcefully on this exposed ridge and a thick envelope of cloud and steadily falling rain denied us of the million dollar views that are reputed to be this tracks highlight. It was all very disappointing to say the least. The weather was completely socked in, with absolutely no chance of ‘sitting it out’ for a couple of hours in hopes of change.
Descending the steep ridge toward the valley below had its difficulties, as the trail was really wet and slippery and the creek, which ran alongside was a raging torrent. The rain came down harder than ever and we were by now wet through to the skin. The wonderful white ribbons of cascading water that looked like someone had spilt milk down the sheer rock walls were a wonderful sight but only temporarily raised our morale.
Off to our left through patchy low-lying clouds, we could periodically make out Sutherland Falls, which is amongst the worlds longest waterfalls. The spectacular cascade, fed by Quill Lake, drops 1904 feet (579m) and strikes the rocky precipice twice in its descent, forming three leaps of 815, 751 and 338 feet respectively.
The reason for hiking the Milford Track is undeniably to experience its grandeur and spectacular scenery. But with all the vistas firmly engulfed in thick cloud, the remainder of the journey just became one long, wet slog.
At the Dumpling Hut, which marked our second and final night on the trail, it was a hive of activity. Our group of ten independent hikers were joined by another party of independents who were taking three nights to complete the voyage, in addition to a group of men who had come down from Auckland for the weekend to run the famous Milford Track. They had covered our two days hike in about 6 hours, steadily jogging in from Glade Wharf, travelling only with daypacks and essential gear.
The mess room that night was busy and steamy, with everyone’s wet garments strung over a steel mesh drying rack that was suspended above the little wood burning stove – which was wholly inadequate for the size of room it was supposed to heat. With minimal BTU output, it was not surprising that the majority of items were still damp again in the morning. Boots were piled up on top of the stove and competition was fierce for the prime drying space.
There was a young man from England who had set out at the same time as us, clad in cotton clothes, Dr.Marten street shoes, a very heavy backpack which contained numerous glass containers with food stuffs and a plastic rain poncho. He seemed a bit eccentric and a little out of place on the trail. But, at the end of the day, he seemed to hold up very well with his $15 NZ over sized piece of plastic, which kept him drier than anyone. So much for very expensive Gore-Tex, which is useless in the rain, even though it advertises itself as waterproof!!
Day 3 was a repeat of day 2 and just a bit of a formality by this stage. The remaining 11 miles
(18km), which terminated at aptly named Sandfly Point, followed the course of the Arthur River through verdant beech forest again. After what had amounted to at least 3 days of continual rain, the notoriously wet Milford Sound was resplendently cloaked in a livery of cascades. Literally hundreds of waterfalls streamed down the granite faces, sending off plumes of fine spray and created a complex network of white ribbons set against the black rock and slate grey water of the Sound. It was simply a stunning sight and completed our picture of the place (again reminded of the saying, ‘you haven’t seen Milford, until you see it in the rain’!).
At Sandfly point, we were met by a guide from one of the local Kayaking outfits who was there to supply us with our means of passage back to Milford Jetty. There is no other way of getting back to the main headland and road home without crossing the water. He had brought several double sea-kayaks and we hopped in, two to a boat, cold and shivering and completely drenched. A steady wind blew across the water adding to the chill factor, but at least it was only a 20-minute paddle to the awaiting warm van, that was to take us back to Te Anau.
So timing is everything with the notoriously wet Milford Track and we caught it at its worst (or best, which ever way you see it!). It will just have to be attempted again in the future with hopes of better weather.
A Trip NorthThe final segment of our travels in New Zealand, were spent driving up to Omaha in the North Island, an hour and a half outside of Auckland. Rennie’s big planting project was going well up there, but they had found the need for an extra vehicle and so asked if we would entertain the idea of delivering one to them. We happily obliged and had 10days at our disposal in which to see some other aspects of the country along the way. Mary was also due to fly up soon to assist with aspects of the job and so that would mean we would have the pleasure of spending at least one more night in their company.
We were told that we would be driving the Home Creek Nursery’s old Toyota Land Cruiser, which really looked suspect when I first saw it, even though it had just been given its warrant of fitness. The mechanic handed me some extra oil, saying that it tended to need filled up periodically on longer trips and to watch out for the brakes, which were ‘sensitive’. It took a little getting used to all the peculiarities of this old funky desert yellow 4x4, such as pre-warming the block before starting, listening to the wind whistling through the rotted window seals and clutching, which in itself was a bit of a work-out. But the trusty old steed proved to be a real old trooper and by the end of the trip I had nothing but praise for the vehicle.
Our journey would entail driving almost the full length of the country, in addition to several detours to places of special scenic interest, adding a few more miles. We had 3 days in which to get to Picton, where the Ferry departs for the crossing to Wellington, while the remaining time would be spent seeing sights in the North Island. Originally, we had no plans of seeing the North Island, so this unexpected trip came as a bit of a bonus for us, while simultaneously being of service to Rennie.
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The weather was picture perfect as we departed the Queenstown area and threaded our way up along the eastern side of the Southern Alps to Aoraki (Mount Cook) National Park, where we spent the night.
The Park straddles the Southern Alps and the 70,000hectare (2.2 acres per hectare) domain includes 22 peaks over 10,000 feet (3000m approx.), braided riverbeds, snowfields and extensive glaciers which cover 40% of the Park, all presided over by the impressive features of Mt.Aoraki - at 12,317 feet (3754m) it is the highest mountain in New Zealand. The Maori word ‘Aoraki’ means ‘sky cloud’, but is usually translated to mean ‘cloud piercer’. The high alpine landscape is home to birds such as pipit, rare black stilt and kea, while the wildflower meadows contain South Island edelweiss, buttercup, Mount Cook lily and large mountain daisy.
Above all else, Aoraki National park is a renowned destination for experienced mountaineers from around the world and the park has 17 huts and shelters, many of which are only accessible by climbers. Other activities include heli-skiing, telemark ski touring, alpine trekking, scenic flights and guided glacier walks. There are also a number of valley hikes in which the intrepid day hiker can easily access.
Arriving here around mid-afternoon and with only limited time in this beautiful area, we settled on a short 3 hour R/T hike up the Hooker Valley to the glacial fed lake that sits beneath the flanks of Mt. Aoraki. This lake is a milky grey color, a product of the heavily silted glacial melt water that continually feeds it. Large chunks of ice float on the surface, having tumbled from the face of the terminal glacier at the far end of the lake. Across the valley the resounding roar from a steady stream of avalanches tumbled off the steep upper face of Mt.Sefton, intermittently breaking the peace and tranquility of the region.
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As daylight was coming to a close, we retreated back down the valley. The sun had dipped below the horizon and Mt. Cook was bathed in a beautiful pink light, known as alpine glow. The temperatures were steadily falling and we bundled up in our down jackets and set up camp under the protective canopy of some tall pines. Stars filled the night sky.
Rising early, the dawn rewarded us with a spectacular fiery red sky that rippled across the underside of high wispy clouds. The sky was a constantly changing palette of color and evolving form and had us transfixed until such time as the intense light from the new days sun, washed out these glorious early morning visual effects.
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We had a long journey ahead of us today, hoping to make it all the way up to Kaikoura. In addition, we still had to stop in at Christchurch and pick up all our other belongings from the ‘Backpackers hostel, where we had formerly stayed.
The roads that snaked through rolling farmland and over mountain passes, always seemed to take us much longer than we’d expect, relative to distance on a map. Our objective was to take our time and see as much as possible within the time frame of our scheduled delivery date.
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So, from the Mt. Cook area we continued on up through Ashburton to Christchurch, where the back of our small Land Cruiser was suddenly filled to capacity with the added luggage and bicycle.
Kaikoura is approximately3 hours north of Christchurch and is a quaint seaside town nestled into a protective bay, flanked behind by the striking majesty of the Kaikoura mountain range. There are lots of outdoor activity opportunities here including sea kayaking, diving, rock climbing, mountaineering (in season), skiing, hiking and whale watching. Good bird watching opportunities exist and there are a number of Fur Seal colonies make their home along the rocky shoreline and small islets just off shore.
The nutrient rich waters are cold and crystal clear, supporting a rich web of sea life. The views up and down the rugged coastline from some of the prominent cliff top walks are just spectacular. On this particular day, it was hot but breezy and we enjoyed watching the seals basking on the rocks and playing in the water.
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The main road extending all the way up to Picton, hugs the undulating coast, which can get quite exposed and windy at times. The ochre tussock grasses predominate on the coastal hillsides and shore plains that have not been already cleared for agricultural or pastoral purposes. Hwy 1 is the main southern arterial linking much of the North Island commerce with centers such as Christchurch and Dunedin farther south. It is constantly plagued by big trucks, which consume the greater share of the relatively narrow, snaking road. Driving around these busier parts of the south island can get hairy at times in comparison with long open stretches and few vehicles experienced elsewhere to date.
As the ferry was due to depart the following morning for the 2 ½ hour crossing to Wellington, we opted to position ourselves closer to Picton for the night, locating a quiet D.O.C (Dept. of Conservation) campsite nestled into a peaceful inlet, about 7 miles (10km) east of the port town. We made camp preparations as the sun sank behind the pine-covered hillside.
A noisy chorus of birds including purple swamp hen, oystercatcher, heron and mallard patrolled the reeds and protective thicket along the shore. Black Swans gracefully cruised the glassy, calm waters in the middle of the small bay. Smoke filtered upward from the wood burning stoves of a couple of nearby residences and hung in the air while the few remaining dwellings which may well have been summer homes, became vague black silhouettes in the still night.
We fell asleep shortly after dinner but were rudely awakened around 1:15 am by the spinning of tires and bright headlights. We could hear 2 voices periodically coming from a vehicle that was purposefully being driven in tight circles in the wet grass of the campsite. Then we heard bushes being ploughed into and these actions were being repeated time and time again. It became fairly apparent to us that this was some kind of malicious, destructive activity that was being carried out on these public lands. Finally, as we pulled on some clothes to go and investigate, there was one last mighty crash as another tree was badly damaged and then the assailants puttered away up the road and out of sight.
In hindsight, it was probably better that it ended this way for us because we had no idea as to what kind of damage they may have inflicted on us if we had confronted them! It unfortunately left us with a bit of a sour memory of the Picton area, on this, our last day on the otherwise magnificent south island.
The huge ferry was the latest in twin-hulled technology, reminiscent of an airplane and a far cry from some of the boats we had experienced up to date. Initially, we glided slowly and quietly through the deep blue waters, passing between some of the many islands that comprise Marlborough Sound before hitting open water - At this time the thrusters kicked in and we hydroplaned at high speed.
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Wellington reminded us somewhat of a smaller version of San Francisco, without a bay bridge. Numerous coves and bays punctuated the hilly coastline, many housing large marinas for the yachting contingent, while numerous older Victorian style homes dotted the city, creating a flavor of elegance amidst its more modern architectural features. Our visit was kept very brief, setting our sights instead on the rural rather than the urban landscape.
It took a while to adjust to the far more densely settled North Island, after spending so much time in the south’s small towns and remote sectors. The weather was also on the decline again and the extended forecast looked no better. Dark clouds gathered out on the horizon but the rain did manage to hold off as we settled into camp on the banks of the Rangatiki Valley River.
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On the far side of the swiftly flowing river, sheer limestone cliffs rose up a couple of hundred feet and starlings nested in the cavities in the rock face. On locating a suitable camp location each night, we would have to unload the entire contents of the vehicle to access the tent and make sufficient room for cooking operations. While I set up camp, Annette would prepare lovely meals and afterwards, the dishes were usually my responsibility.
It had rained during the night and we folded away a wet tent, cooked breakfast then made tracks for Tongariro National Park near Lake Taupo, in the central region of the North Island. The closer we got to this particular world Heritage site, the harder the rain seemed to come down. Off to our right, somewhere amidst the thick blanket of grey that settled in, were the 3 andesitic volcanoes of Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. These last two are some of the most active volcanoes in the world and lie at the southern end of what is known as the ‘Taupo Volcanic Zone’. Ruapehu (9200feet / 2797m), the north island’s tallest peak, last erupted in 1996 making world headline news and wiped out one of the major ski fields on its flanks.
The Taupo Volcanic Zone, which runs in a northeasterly direction from Tongariro out to White Island in the Bay of Plenty, is regarded as the most unstable and volcanically active hot spot in the world. Where the earth’s crust is on average 22 miles(35 km) thick, along the fault line it is only between 3-6 miles (5-10 km).
Volcanic activity in the region started about 2 million years ago. Throughout the active zone, there are hundreds of thermal and geo thermal steam vents and hot springs, bubbling mud pools and geysers. A percentage of NZ’s energy comes from harnessing this natural source and of course the numerous hot springs attract many visitors annually.
Tongariro National Park is NZ’s oldest national park and has world heritage status not only for its outstanding volcanic features but also as an important Maori cultural site. In 1887, Horonuku Te Heuheu Tukino, then paramount chief of Ngati Tuwharetoa, gifted the central portion of the park to the nation and along with it a vital part of the Maori ancestral heritage.
The landscape is one of contrast - chaotic, barren lava flows, winter snowfields, active craters, lakes and hot springs mix with alpine herb fields, thick clusters of tussock and flax and dense beech forest. The harsh environment and poor soil quality lessen the growth opportunity for diverse forests to take root, yet some small pockets of spectacular podocarps do exist.
The huge eruption of Lake Taupo, 1800 years ago (100 times as powerful as Mt. St. Helen’s), caused widespread destruction and literally leveled forests and buried everything that was within a 50mile (80 km) radius of Taupo. The eruption ejected pumice to heights of 30miles (50 km) up and sent volcanic material radically outward at speeds of up to 370mph (600 km/h). The affected area includes what is most of today’s Tongariro National Park. The park is also home to NZ’s only native mammals, the short and long tailed bats.
Needless to say, due to the crappy weather, our experience of and education concerning Tongariro National Park can be attributed to the excellent visitor center and its wonderful interpretive displays!
The Wai-O-Tapu (‘sacred waters’) thermal ‘wonderland’ is a short drive from Rotorua and this scenic reserve has the largest area of surface thermal activity of any hydrothermal system in the Taupo Volcanic Zone.
The area is dotted with collapsed craters, cold and boiling pools of mud, water and steaming fumaroles. There are a number of chemicals present in the water of this highly active area, that give rise to a colorful palette of inky stains and colored crystalline formations: yellow/primrose-sulfur, white-silica, red/brown-iron oxide, purple- manganese, orange-antimony, green-arsenic, black-sulfur and carbon.
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We followed a well-marked trail past numerous fascinating geological formations and over unstable grounds, where some of the largest craters are 65feet (20m) across and 40feet (12m) deep, several of which contained boiling springs and most had sulphur deposits caused by escaping vapors. The majority of the craters were formed over the last 900 years by acid water action from underground springs resulting in surface collapses. Names are given to each of these fascinating features, such as Devil’s Home, Rainbow Crater and Thunder Crater. The strong smell of sulphur permeated the air and became particularly pungent and obnoxious when the wind blew directly across these vent holes. Some of the most beautiful features are without question the colored pools such as Champagne pool and the adjoining Artist’s Palette, which have colors of every tint and hue present in the hot and cold waters. These constantly changing colors and inky stains are influenced by water levels, wind direction and overflow from the expansive Champagne pool, which is 200feet (60m) in diameter and 200feet (60m) deep, with a temperature of 74 degrees C. Bubbles emanating from the depths are a product of carbon dioxide and the color of the water is due to minerals which include gold, silver, mercury, sulphur, arsenic, thallium and antimony etc.
Downstream, deposits of sinter (silicate of lime) from the Champagne pools, evaporate and have over the centuries, created an expansive crystalline formation known as the primrose terrace, the largest example in NZ. These sinter terraces have a somewhat corrugated surface texture reminiscent of the limestone formations found in caves, and the cascading Bridal Veil Falls, which marks the end of these particular features, is created in a very similar fashion to cave stalactites.
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Only a couple miles from the Wai-O-Tapu thermal area, there is a small hot stream known as ‘Kerosene Creek’. It is not on any tourist map or signposted, but is well known to the local community. A forestry service road leads to the small parking area adjacent to the creek. Steam rises off the surface of the hot water as it cascades over rocks and tumbles into deep, bubbling pools that act like Jacuzzi’s.
The main swimming hole, is fed by a waterfall about 6 feet (2m) wide by 4 feet (1.5m) high. It is delightful to luxuriate in these hot pools in such a natural setting – though there is a warning sign that reminds bathers that amoebic meningitis can be present in the water and should be careful not to get it in ones ears and nose.
From the volcanically active Taupo/Rototua region, we made tracks via a coastal route to the Coromandel Peninsula. This scenically beautiful region, which is largely unspoiled and noted for its stunning, rugged coastline, quiet sandy bays, quaint villages, verdant forests and undulating mountain range with craggy peaks, is only a couple of hours drive from the busy Auckland metropolitan area. Because of the accessibility and the inherent natural splendor, the Coromandel is probably one of the more frequently visited regions in the country.
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It is rich in bird and sea life and offers many recreational opportunities, while inland there are numerous extinct volcanoes and large areas of temperate rainforest ideal for trekking. The road system is limited, narrow and twisting, much of it being gravel in the interior and northern sections - because of this, it rarely allows you to move beyond third gear.
Rain continued to shadow our route with occasional bursts of strong sunlight piercing the dark, brooding clouds and created very dramatic effects over the rolling green landscape and turbulent sea.
Forestry plays a big part in the peninsulas commercial enterprise, with pine forests covering huge tracts of land. From the higher elevated viewpoints, it was evident that clear-cutting operations had de-nuded entire hillsides and looked particularly unappealing.
Logging has played an integral part of community life here for generations, since settlers discovered the huge stands of native Kauri tree that once thrived here but now are limited to small pocket reserves. These huge magnificent trees, Agathis Australis, are the largest and most famous of NZ’s native trees. They are a type of conifer, which grow in the sub-tropical northern part of the North Island.
Kauri trees produce a gum resin, which bleeds from the bark, helping to seal wounds and keep out invasive insects. The European settlers found it to have many useful commercial applications – such as varnishes, sealing waxes, candles, denture molding material and marine glues to name a few. Prior to this, it was used widely by the Maori people for cooking and fire lighting, due to the fact that it burns easily - and it even served as a pigment to make the dark color in tattoos.
The Kauri-podocarp-hardwood forests are among the most ancient in the world and standing beneath these towering giants, we were reminded of the Californian Redwoods, due to their size and awesome presence.
As the trees mature, they shed all the lower limbs allowing only the upper branches to grow into a massive, spreading crown with luxuriant undergrowth, which often plays host to other species such as ferns, mosses, lichens, epiphytes and lianas. They stand above and dominate the surrounding forest, their thick, columnar trunks periodically shedding flakes of bark to keep the tree free of epiphytes.
The largest standing Kauri tree is Tane Mahuta (Maori for ‘lord of the forest’), which has a diameter of 14.5 feet (4.4m) and the first branch appears at a height of 58 feet (17.7m). It is believed that some huge specimens that were lost to the rampant logging boom that decimated New Zealand’s old growth stands, may have reached 4000 years in age. The oldest presently standing tree is 2000 years old, while the giants we observed were a mere 600 years!
We ventured up the western flank of the peninsula, past Coromandel town to Coleville, then headed over the spine of the mountain range, finally dropping down to the eastern shore above Kennedy bay. These northerly sections certainly receive far less traffic than the more established and popular communities of the lower reaches. The gravel roads, substantially reduced facilities/amenities and added hours of driving help thin the crowds. Being here in the low season was a bonus as far as we were concerned.
It is relatively undisturbed and quiet up here, with hundreds of protected little coves and bays hugging the coastline - some are rocky, others unbroken stretches of sand. Much of the land is either used for farming or is conservation property and we enjoyed walks along the beaches and wooded areas, bird watching as we went.
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We were the only people staying at the D.O.C campsite, which was nestled into a peaceful open green space next to the beach. A small finger of land that jutted out into the bay bore the brunt of any incoming weather patterns and gave protection to our immediate surroundings. Common purple swamp hens grazed away in the long grass of the surrounding field’s and awoke us in the morning with their noisy, raucous screeches. We emerged from the tent to a glorious day, the first in so many.
It would be our final day in the Coromandel, as we had made the decision to head on to Omaha a day earlier than planned and give ourselves a moment to re-cooperate in the company of our friends Rennie and Mary, before flying on to Fiji.
Dismantling the tent for the last time, we packed up the land cruiser and looped back around the head of the peninsula to rejoin the main road south and west towards Auckland.
Darkening clouds had swept in by mid morning and were once more battling with the available sunlight for dominion over the skies. We agreed that the weather had not been a favorable factor in the latter half of our stay in New Zealand and certainly dampened our spirits at times and limited the planned outdoor activities.
Arriving around 8.30pm, we surprised our hosts by turning up unexpectedly, but they warmly greeted us none-the-less. We had stopped at pay phones along our route several times, but not one of them accepted coins, only credit cards! Rennie and Mary treated us to a hot dinner and several glasses of nice red wine, making us feel at home once again. Having a little down time before the onward leg of our journey proved to be a necessary thing. We were able to relax a little, clean up after several days on the road and re-organize our bags. We also got the chance to see the monumental planting project that Rennie and his partner John were so ensconced with.
It was tough leaving New Zealand and having to say farewell’s one more time, but our traveling time was quickly drawing to an end and we still had two more stops before heading home to Baltimore.
